A wave-by-wave analysis for the evaluation of the breaking-wave celerity
M Postacchini, M Brocchini - Applied Ocean Research, 2014 - Elsevier
The paper gives an overall description of the breaking-wave celerity on the basis of a wave-
by-wave analysis that has been performed by using field data collected during the ECORS
Project (Truc Vert Beach, France, 2008). Data coming from two pressure sensors have been
analyzed with the aim to correlate, after a zero-crossing analysis, each wave of both signals.
The method is based on a first correlation between 10′ time windows of both signals and,
then, on the individuation of the correct time lag for each wave. Such data, which reveals a …
by-wave analysis that has been performed by using field data collected during the ECORS
Project (Truc Vert Beach, France, 2008). Data coming from two pressure sensors have been
analyzed with the aim to correlate, after a zero-crossing analysis, each wave of both signals.
The method is based on a first correlation between 10′ time windows of both signals and,
then, on the individuation of the correct time lag for each wave. Such data, which reveals a …
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