Cooking Cubanidad: Food Importation and Cuban Identity in Santiago de Cuba
H Garth - Food and Identity in the Caribbean, 2013 - torrossa.com
Food and Identity in the Caribbean, 2013•torrossa.com
… However, I argue here that in the case of Cuba local identities are strengthened despite
the integration of “foreign” foods and new technologies into Cuban cuisine. I build upon Ortiz’s
work, showing that the history of importation and mestizaje in the Caribbean allows for new
foods to be readily integrated into Cuban cuisine without leading to a sense of identity loss.
However, as I will show, not everything is integrated into Cuban identity, and there are clear
ways that Cubans distinguish themselves and their culinary practices from others. …
the integration of “foreign” foods and new technologies into Cuban cuisine. I build upon Ortiz’s
work, showing that the history of importation and mestizaje in the Caribbean allows for new
foods to be readily integrated into Cuban cuisine without leading to a sense of identity loss.
However, as I will show, not everything is integrated into Cuban identity, and there are clear
ways that Cubans distinguish themselves and their culinary practices from others. …
Background
Under the Cuban socialist state, a food rationing system was established in 1962. It is referred to locally as la libreta, a reference to the ration cards administered to all Cuban citizens for the purchase of basic food items (Benjamin, Collins, and Scott
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