GLOBEX: Wave dynamics on a shallow sloping beach

H Michallet, BG Ruessink, MVLM da Rocha… - HYDRALAB IV Joint …, 2014 - hal.science
H Michallet, BG Ruessink, MVLM da Rocha, A De Bakker, A Ruju, PA Silva, N Sénéchal
HYDRALAB IV Joint User Meeting, Lisbon, July 2014, 2014hal.science
As waves approach the shore, their non-linear dynamics becomes increasingly important.
Most of our understanding of wave non-linearity has resulted from theoretical work,
laboratory experiments and field studies on beaches slopes steeper than about 1: 40. There,
very strong non-linear processes happen locally and on a short time scale, as demonstrated
by narrow surf zones with plunging or collapsing breakers. The non-linearity on gently-
sloping beaches, typical of high-energy dissipative environments, has a different character …
As waves approach the shore, their non-linear dynamics becomes increasingly important. Most of our understanding of wave non-linearity has resulted from theoretical work, laboratory experiments and field studies on beaches slopes steeper than about 1:40. There, very strong non-linear processes happen locally and on a short time scale, as demonstrated by narrow surf zones with plunging or collapsing breakers. The non-linearity on gently-sloping beaches, typical of high-energy dissipative environments, has a different character, as it can build up over a long period of time and along an extensive cross-shore area. This contribution serves to introduce the GLOBEX project, during which a high-resolution (in space and time) data set of the cross-shore evolution of short and infragravity waves was collected on a low-sloping (1:80) non-mobile laboratory beach. As non-linear transfers also occur in the vertical from the free-stream flow downwards into the bottom boundary layer, additional flow measurements performed with Laser Doppler Anemometry are also briefly presented.
hal.science
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