One-dimensional modelling of individual waves and wave-induced longshore currents in the surf zone

LC Van Rijn, KM Wijnberg - Coastal Engineering, 1996 - Elsevier
A probabilistic model (Wavis-model) was developed to describe the propagation and
transformation of individual waves (wave by wave approach). The individual waves shoal
until an empirical criterion for breaking is satisfied. Wave height decay after breaking is
modelled by using an energy dissipation method. Wave-induced set-up and set-down and
breaking-associated longshore currents are also modelled. Laboratory and field data were
used to calibrate and verify the model. The model was calibrated by adjusting the wave …

One-dimensional modelling of individual waves and wave-induced longshore currents in the surf zone

LC Van Rijn, KM Wijnberg - Oceanographic Literature Review, 1997 - infona.pl
Wave height decay after breaking is modelled using an energy dissipation method. Wave-
induced set-up and set-down and breaking-associated longshore currents are also
modelled. The model was calibrated by adjusting the wave breaking coefficient. Generally,
the measured H. 1 3-wave heights are well represented by the model in all zones from deep
water to the shallow surf zone. The fraction of breaking waves was also well represented by
the model in the upsloping zones of the bottom profile.
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