Serre Green-Naghdi modelling of wave transformation breaking and run-up using a high-order finite-volume finite-difference scheme

M Tissier, P Bonneton, F Marche, F Chazel… - Coastal Engineering …, 2011 - journals.tdl.org
Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 2011journals.tdl.org
In this paper, a fully nonlinear Boussinesq model is presented and applied to the description
of breaking waves and shoreline motions. It is based on Serre Green-Naghdi equations,
solved using a time-splitting approach separating hyperbolic and dispersive parts of the
equations. The hyperbolic part of the equations is solved using Finite-Volume schemes,
whereas dispersive terms are solved using a Finite-Difference method. The idea is to switch
locally in space and time to NSWE by skipping the dispersive step when the wave is ready to …
Abstract
In this paper, a fully nonlinear Boussinesq model is presented and applied to the description of breaking waves and shoreline motions. It is based on Serre Green-Naghdi equations, solved using a time-splitting approach separating hyperbolic and dispersive parts of the equations. The hyperbolic part of the equations is solved using Finite-Volume schemes, whereas dispersive terms are solved using a Finite-Difference method. The idea is to switch locally in space and time to NSWE by skipping the dispersive step when the wave is ready to break, so as the energy dissipation due to wave breaking is predicted by the shock theory. This approach allows wave breaking to be handled naturally, without any ad-hoc parameterization for the energy dissipation. Extensive validations of the method are presented using laboratory data.
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