Chef Gary Hoopengardner uses his connections with local producers to create an up-to-date German cuisine that places both vegetarian and offal-based dishes on the table. Respect for the ingredients partners with a sense of purpose in a way that should delight the diner: the calf sweetbreads with carrot marmalade and sage aïoli (10 Euros) was fantastic, although the accompanying frisée salad, a bit overambitious with its house-made sour-cherry compôte, distracts from it. Very good, and a nice appetizer to recommend for the organ-meat-challenged diner, was the calf tongue with marrow semolina and turnip marmalade (9 Euros). The mâche salad with red beets, pears and tonka bean vinaigrette (9 Euros) will appeal to more than just vegetarians as a light appetizer.(translated from Roeger 2012)

As the introductory quote suggests, restaurant reviews are a particular literary genre. For us as customers, reviews offer evaluations and may help us make decisions: Would we want to join in eating vegetarian and offal-based regional and seasonal dishes? For us as analysts interested in valuation, restaurant reviews offer further insights. As written notices, they call attention to the qualities of what was tasted and experienced at a particular time. When looking at them over time and removed from the actual practices of tasting and critiquing, such written reviews exhibit a map of a changing field of attention to culinary practices and to that which was tasted. What experiences are worthy of paying attention to in reviews? What are the tastes being tasted in a city’s restaurants? What are the structures and the dynamics of the tasted? This chapter inquires into the dynamics of what was