Two methods to treat wave breaking in the framework of the Hamiltonian formulation of free- surface potential flow are presented, tested, and validated. The first is an extension of …
Hamiltonian variational principles have provided, since the 1960s, the means of developing very successful wave theories for nonlinear free-surface flows, under the assumption of …
For coastal engineering studies and the efficient design of ports and harbors, reliable information concerning wave conditions in nearshore and coastal sites is needed. In the …
The propagation and transformation of water waves over varying bathymetries is a subject of fundamental interest to ocean, coastal and harbor engineers. The specific bathymetry …
Résumé Dans ce travail, nous dérivons un nouveau modele de vagues en utilisant un ansatz pour le potentiel de vitesse inspiré de la théorie des eaux peu profondes. Le …
The propagation and transformation of water waves over varying bathymetries is a subject of fundamental interest to ocean, coastal and harbor engineers. The specific bathymetry …