Real world ocean rogue waves explained without the modulational instability
Since the 1990s, the modulational instability has commonly been used to explain the
occurrence of rogue waves that appear from nowhere in the open ocean. However, the …
occurrence of rogue waves that appear from nowhere in the open ocean. However, the …
On a unified breaking onset threshold for gravity waves in deep and intermediate depth water
We revisit the classical but as yet unresolved problem of predicting the breaking onset of 2D
and 3D irrotational gravity water waves. Based on a fully nonlinear 3D boundary element …
and 3D irrotational gravity water waves. Based on a fully nonlinear 3D boundary element …
A unified breaking onset criterion for surface gravity water waves in arbitrary depth
We investigate the validity and robustness of the Barthelemy et al.(2018, https://doi.
org/10.1017/jfm. 2018.93) wave‐breaking onset prediction framework for surface gravity …
org/10.1017/jfm. 2018.93) wave‐breaking onset prediction framework for surface gravity …
On the kurtosis of deep-water gravity waves
F Fedele - Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 2015 - cambridge.org
In this paper, we revisit Janssen's (J. Phys. Oceanogr., vol. 33 (4), 2003, pp. 863–884)
formulation for the dynamic excess kurtosis of weakly nonlinear gravity waves in deep water …
formulation for the dynamic excess kurtosis of weakly nonlinear gravity waves in deep water …
An experimental comparison of velocities underneath focussed breaking waves
Nonlinear wave interactions affect the evolution of steep wave groups, their breaking and
the associated kinematic field. Laboratory experiments are performed to investigate the …
the associated kinematic field. Laboratory experiments are performed to investigate the …
On the kinematic criterion for the inception of breaking in surface gravity waves: Fully nonlinear numerical simulations and experimental verification
The evolution of unidirectional wave trains containing a wave that gradually becomes steep
is evaluated experimentally and numerically using the Boundary Element Method (BEM) …
is evaluated experimentally and numerically using the Boundary Element Method (BEM) …
Large nearshore storm waves off the Irish coast
We present a statistical analysis of nearshore waves observed during two major North–East
Atlantic storms in 2015 and 2017. Surface elevations were measured with a 5-beam …
Atlantic storms in 2015 and 2017. Surface elevations were measured with a 5-beam …
[HTML][HTML] Lagrangian kinematic criterion for the breaking of shoaling waves
U Itay, D Liberzon - Journal of Physical Oceanography, 2017 - journals.ametsoc.org
An experimental study was conducted with the aim of validating the Lagrangian kinematic
criterion (LKC) for the case of breaking of shoaling waves. Monochromatic wave trains were …
criterion (LKC) for the case of breaking of shoaling waves. Monochromatic wave trains were …
Crest speeds of unsteady surface water waves
Intuitively, crest speeds of water waves are assumed to match their phase speeds. However,
this is generally not the case for natural waves within unsteady wave groups. This motivates …
this is generally not the case for natural waves within unsteady wave groups. This motivates …
Characteristics of wave breaking and blocking by spatially varying opposing currents
H Chen, Q Zou - Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 2018 - Wiley Online Library
Abstract A Reynolds‐Averaged Navier‐Stokes (RANS) flow solver with a Volume of Fluid
(VOF) surface capturing scheme is used to investigate wave breaking and blocking due to …
(VOF) surface capturing scheme is used to investigate wave breaking and blocking due to …