To describe the strongly nonlinear dynamics of waves propagating in the final stages of
shoaling and in the surf and swash zones, fully nonlinear models are required. The ability of …

The fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green–Naghdi model for shallow water waves of
large amplitude is studied. The original model is first recast under a new formulation more …

Background Focused wave groups offer a means for coastal engineers to determine
extreme run-up and overtopping events. Research purpose This work examines numerically …

Landslides in sensitive clays pose a major threat to life, property and the environment. The
lack of warning signs and the extreme mobility of quick clays increase the risk. When …

The nonlinear shallow water model is widely used in the study of tsunami propagation, but
an increasing number of studies are dedicated to the dispersion dynamics of tsunamis. If the …

This work uses the weighted residual method to simulate non-hydrostatic flows in ocean and
coastal areas in a vertically-averaged framework. A Vertically-Averaged and Moment …

When tsunami wave fronts reach the shore, they can evolve into a large range of bore types,
from undular non-breaking bore to purely breaking bore. It is the complex competition …

This thesis investigates the coupling of coastal phase-resolving water wave models,
commonly employed in the study of nearshore wave propagation. Despite numerous models …

We describe a numerical method for solving the Serre equations that can simulate flows
over dry bathymetry. The method solves the Serre equations in conservation law form with a …

Green–Naghdi wave theory, abbreviated as GN theory, is a fully nonlinear wave theory. Its
idea is similar with traditional perturbation method while includes some difference on details …