Interactions between mean sea level, tide, surge, waves and flooding: mechanisms and contributions to sea level variations at the coast

D Idier, X Bertin, P Thompson, MD Pickering - Surveys in Geophysics, 2019 - Springer
Coastal areas epitomize the notion of 'at-risk'territory in the context of climate change and
sea level rise (SLR). Knowledge of the water level changes at the coast resulting from the …

A global wave parameter database for geophysical applications. Part 2: Model validation with improved source term parameterization

N Rascle, F Ardhuin - Ocean Modelling, 2013 - Elsevier
A multi-scale global hindcast of ocean waves is presented that covers the years 1994–2012,
based on recently published parameterizations for wind sea and swell dissipation [Ardhuin …

Wave modelling in coastal and inner seas

L Cavaleri, S Abdalla, A Benetazzo, L Bertotti… - Progress in …, 2018 - Elsevier
In the long term development of the research on wind waves and their modelling, in
particular of the inner and coastal seas, the present situation is framed with a short look at …

Small‐scale open ocean currents have large effects on wind wave heights

F Ardhuin, ST Gille, D Menemenlis… - Journal of …, 2017 - Wiley Online Library
Tidal currents and large‐scale oceanic currents are known to modify ocean wave properties,
causing extreme sea states that are a hazard to navigation. Recent advances in the …

The Sea State CCI dataset v1: towards a sea state climate data record based on satellite observations

G Dodet, JF Piolle, Y Quilfen, S Abdalla… - Earth System …, 2020 - essd.copernicus.org
Sea state data are of major importance for climate studies, marine engineering, safety at sea
and coastal management. However, long-term sea state datasets are sparse and not always …

Comparison and validation of physical wave parameterizations in spectral wave models

JE Stopa, F Ardhuin, A Babanin, S Zieger - Ocean Modelling, 2016 - Elsevier
Recent developments in the physical parameterizations available in spectral wave models
have already been validated, but there is little information on their relative performance …

Beach recovery from extreme storm activity during the 2013–14 winter along the Atlantic coast of Europe

G Dodet, B Castelle, G Masselink… - Earth Surface …, 2019 - Wiley Online Library
The storm sequence of the 2013–14 winter left many beaches along the Atlantic coast of
Europe in their most eroded state for decades. Understanding how beaches recover from …

Global wave hindcasts using the observation‐based source terms: Description and validation

Q Liu, AV Babanin, WE Rogers, S Zieger… - Journal of Advances …, 2021 - Wiley Online Library
Global wave hindcasts are developed using the third generation spectral wave model
WAVEWATCH III with the observation‐based source terms (ST6) and a hybrid rectilinear …

On the developments of spectral wave models: numerics and parameterizations for the coastal ocean

A Roland, F Ardhuin - Ocean Dynamics, 2014 - Springer
The development of numerical wave models for coastal applications, including coupling with
ocean circulation models, has spurred an ongoing effort on theoretical foundations …

A long-term dataset of topography and nearshore bathymetry at the macrotidal pocket beach of Porsmilin, France

S Bertin, F Floc'h, N Le Dantec, M Jaud, R Cancouët… - Scientific Data, 2022 - nature.com
Long-term datasets documenting the evolution of coastal forms and processes, through the
provision of recurring beach as well as shoreface morphological observations and …