Double bar beach dynamics on the high-energy meso-macrotidal French Aquitanian Coast: A review

B Castelle, P Bonneton, H Dupuis, N Sénéchal - Marine geology, 2007 - Elsevier
The French Aquitanian Coast is an approximately 250 km long straight low coast exposed to
high energy conditions in a meso-macrotidal setting. Offshore wave conditions are …

Field observations of an evolving rip current on a meso-macrotidal well-developed inner bar and rip morphology

N Bruneau, B Castelle, P Bonneton, R Pedreros… - Continental shelf …, 2009 - Elsevier
The Aquitanian Coast (France) is a high-energy meso-macrotidal environment exhibiting a
highly variable double sandbar system. The inner and the outer bar generally exhibit a bar …

Field measurements and non-linear prediction of wave celerity in the surf zone

M Tissier, P Bonneton, R Almar, B Castelle… - European Journal of …, 2011 - Elsevier
A good prediction of wave celerity in the surf zone is essential for wave propagation
modelling in the nearshore. This paper is devoted to a study of wave celerity based on the …

Suspended sediment transport in rip currents on a macrotidal beach

A Thorpe, J Miles, G Masselink… - Journal of Coastal …, 2013 - meridian.allenpress.com
ABSTRACT Thorpe, A., Miles, J., Masselink, G., Russell, P., Scott, T., Austin, M., 2013.
Sediment Transport In Rip Currents on a Macrotidal Beach Rip currents are offshore …

Very Low Frequency motions of a rip current system: observations and modeling

N Bruneau, B Castelle, P Bonneton… - Journal of Coastal …, 2009 - JSTOR
Biscarrosse beach, located on the French Aquitanian Coast, is a high-energy meso-
macrotidal double-barred beach. The outer and the inner bars exhibit most of the time …

Rip current system over strong alongshore non-uniformities: on the use of HADCP for model validation

B Castelle, P Bretel, S Morisset, P Bonneton… - Journal of coastal …, 2009 - JSTOR
Modeling and understanding topographically-controlled rip currents remains a challenging
task. One of the reasons is the lack of intensive, high-spatial resolution, flow field …

[PDF][PDF] DINÂMICA DAS CORRENTES DE RETORNO EM UMA PRAIA INTERMEDIÁRIA DE MICROMARÉ DOMINADA POR ONDAS

FFC Sudau - 2016 - researchgate.net
As correntes de retorno (rip currents) são a principal causa de afogamentos e resgates em
praias oceânicas ao redor do mundo (SHORT e HOGAN, 1994, HOEFEL e KLEIN, 1998 …

[PDF][PDF] ECOS-Sud

N du Directeur, A Cartellier - epoc.u-bordeaux1.fr
Le présent projet s' insere dans un contexte scientifique large. Il se rattachea la thématique
de l'hydrodynamique et de la morphologie des zones littorales affectées par le déferlement …

[PDF][PDF] Etude expérimentale de la célérité des vagues en zone de surf

M Tissier, P Bonneton, R Almar… - CFM 2009-19ème …, 2009 - epoc.u-bordeaux1.fr
L'estimation de la célérité des vagues en zone de surf est une étape essentielle dans la
modélisation de la circulation littorale. Nous présentons une étude de ce paramètre basée …

[PDF][PDF] Kustlijnzorg Project

C Brière, HFP van den Boogaard - 2009 - publications.deltares.nl
A stochastic model has been developed, based on the historical trend analysis of long-term
yearlyrecorded Jarkus-data, in order to describe the long-term dynamics of Coastal State …