Rip currents are narrow and concentrated seaward-directed flows that extend from close to
the shoreline, through the surf zone, and varying distances beyond. Rip currents are …

The French Aquitanian Coast is an approximately 250 km long straight low coast exposed to
high energy conditions in a meso-macrotidal setting. Offshore wave conditions are …

The world's coastlines represent a myriad of dynamic and constantly changing
environments. Heavily settled and intensely used areas, they are of enormous importance to …

Rip currents are shore-normal, narrow, seaward-flowing currents that originate within surf
zone, extend seaward of the breaking region (rip head), and can obtain relatively high …

A significant problem in current coastal research is the understanding of linkages between
morphological phenomena occurring on different temporal and spatial scales …

Seasonal change in beach morphology is traditionally ascribed to a variation in the incident
wave energy level with calm conditions in summer resulting in wide beaches with …

A tripartite classification of gravel beaches, based upon morphodynamic properties, is
proposed and demonstrated for 42 New Zealand beaches. The main advantage of this …

Hidden and perilous rip currents are one of the primary factors leading to drownings of
beach swimmers. By identifying the coastal areas with the highest likelihood of generating …

Wave and current measurements are presented from a set of laboratory experiments
performed on a fixed barred beach with periodically spaced rip channels using a range of …

The accepted view of rip currents is that they are an efficient mechanism for transporting
material out of the surf zone. Previous rip current campaigns on natural beaches have …