Infragravity‐wave modulation of short‐wave celerity in the surf zone
M Tissier, P Bonneton, H Michallet… - Journal of Geophysical …, 2015 - Wiley Online Library
The cross‐shore evolution of individual wave celerity is investigated using two high‐
resolution laboratory experiments on bichromatic waves. Individual waves are tracked …
resolution laboratory experiments on bichromatic waves. Individual waves are tracked …
Improving the parameterization of wave nonlinearities–The importance of wave steepness, spectral bandwidth and beach slope
MVL Rocha, H Michallet, PA Silva - Coastal Engineering, 2017 - Elsevier
Wave-velocity nonlinearities are among the main drivers of sediment transport. For practical
engineering purposes, they can be described by simple parameterizations that allow their …
engineering purposes, they can be described by simple parameterizations that allow their …
On the bound wave phase lag
T Guérin, A de Bakker, X Bertin - Fluids, 2019 - mdpi.com
More than three decades ago, it was noted that the ocean infragravity bound wave
increasingly lags behind the forcing short-wave groups when propagating towards the …
increasingly lags behind the forcing short-wave groups when propagating towards the …
Regular and random wave modelling over mild uniform bathymetry using SWASH
U Al Khalili, V Bellos, M Christou… - Available at SSRN …, 2024 - papers.ssrn.com
The modelling of coastal waves is challenging in light of their complex behaviour driven by a
range of interacting physical effects such as nonlinear amplification, wave breaking and the …
range of interacting physical effects such as nonlinear amplification, wave breaking and the …