Infragravity waves: From driving mechanisms to impacts
Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of
wind-generated “short waves”(typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common …
wind-generated “short waves”(typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common …
The contribution of wind-generated waves to coastal sea-level changes
Surface gravity waves generated by winds are ubiquitous on our oceans and play a
primordial role in the dynamics of the ocean–land–atmosphere interfaces. In particular, wind …
primordial role in the dynamics of the ocean–land–atmosphere interfaces. In particular, wind …
A Bayesian‐based system to assess wave‐driven flooding hazards on coral reef‐lined coasts
SG Pearson, CD Storlazzi… - Journal of …, 2017 - Wiley Online Library
Many low‐elevation, coral reef‐lined, tropical coasts are vulnerable to the effects of climate
change, sea level rise, and wave‐induced flooding. The considerable morphological …
change, sea level rise, and wave‐induced flooding. The considerable morphological …
Mechanisms of wave‐driven water level variability on reef‐fringed coastlines
Wave‐driven water level variability (and runup at the shoreline) is a significant cause of
coastal flooding induced by storms. Wave runup is challenging to predict, particularly along …
coastal flooding induced by storms. Wave runup is challenging to predict, particularly along …
Wave‐driven hydrodynamic processes over fringing reefs with varying slopes, depths, and roughness: Implications for coastal protection
Wave breaking on the steep fore‐reef slopes of shallow fringing reefs can be effective at
dissipating incident sea‐swell waves prior to reaching reef shorelines. However, wave setup …
dissipating incident sea‐swell waves prior to reaching reef shorelines. However, wave setup …
Coastal hazard risk assessment for small islands: assessing the impact of climate change and disaster reduction measures on Ebeye (Marshall Islands)
Small island states around the world are among the areas most vulnerable to climate
change and sea level rise. In this paper, we present results from an innovative methodology …
change and sea level rise. In this paper, we present results from an innovative methodology …
The importance of explicitly modelling sea-swell waves for runup on reef-lined coasts
The importance of explicitly modelling sea-swell waves for runup was examined using a 2D
XBeach short wave-averaged (surfbeat,“XB-SB”) and a wave-resolving (non-hydrostatic,“XB …
XBeach short wave-averaged (surfbeat,“XB-SB”) and a wave-resolving (non-hydrostatic,“XB …
Effects of reef morphology variations on wave processes over fringing reefs
Y Yao, Q Zhang, S Chen, Z Tang - Applied ocean research, 2019 - Elsevier
Many low-lying tropical and sub-tropical atolls fringed by coral reefs are susceptible to
coastal inundation during extreme wave events. Previous studies have shown that the …
coastal inundation during extreme wave events. Previous studies have shown that the …
Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics simulations of reef surf zone processes driven by plunging irregular waves
As waves interact with the slopes of coral reefs and other steep bathymetry profiles, plunging
breaking usually occurs where the free surface overturns and violent water motion is …
breaking usually occurs where the free surface overturns and violent water motion is …
Sea level rise will drive divergent sediment transport patterns on fore reefs and reef flats, potentially causing erosion on atoll islands
Atoll reef islands primarily consist of unconsolidated sediment, and their ocean‐facing
shorelines are maintained by sediment produced and transported across their reefs …
shorelines are maintained by sediment produced and transported across their reefs …