On the kinematic criterion for the inception of breaking in surface gravity waves: Fully nonlinear numerical simulations and experimental verification
The evolution of unidirectional wave trains containing a wave that gradually becomes steep
is evaluated experimentally and numerically using the Boundary Element Method (BEM) …
is evaluated experimentally and numerically using the Boundary Element Method (BEM) …
[HTML][HTML] Wave breaking in undular bores generated by a moving weir
SD Hatland, H Kalisch - Physics of Fluids, 2019 - pubs.aip.org
If a weir is dragged through a wave flume, the upstream flow takes the form of an undular
bore propagating ahead of the weir. It was found previously in the work of Wilkinson and …
bore propagating ahead of the weir. It was found previously in the work of Wilkinson and …
Lagrangian measurements of orbital velocities in the surf zone
Eulerian and Lagrangian measurements of orbital velocities in waves approaching a beach
are analyzed with the goal of understanding the relative influence of wave‐by‐wave …
are analyzed with the goal of understanding the relative influence of wave‐by‐wave …
Identification of wave breaking from nearshore wave-by-wave records
Using data from a recent field campaign, we evaluate several breaking criteria with the goal
of assessing the accuracy of these criteria in wave breaking detection. Two new criteria are …
of assessing the accuracy of these criteria in wave breaking detection. Two new criteria are …
Laboratory experiments of surf zone dynamics under on-and offshore wind conditions
This paper presents detailed laboratory experiments investigating the effect onshore and
offshore wind conditions have on nearshore wave dynamics, including extreme winds. The …
offshore wind conditions have on nearshore wave dynamics, including extreme winds. The …
A new definition of the kinematic breaking onset criterion validated with solitary and quasi-regular waves in shallow water
A large body of work has been devoted to the accurate detection and simulation of wave
breaking in coastal areas. It is a key process for a wide range of engineering activities and …
breaking in coastal areas. It is a key process for a wide range of engineering activities and …
Statistics of fetch-limited wind waves observed along the western coast of the Gulf of Aqaba
Wind driven waves regime along the western shore of the Gulf of Aqaba is only sparsely
investigated, despite its significant impact on the abundance of engineering, leisure, and …
investigated, despite its significant impact on the abundance of engineering, leisure, and …
Crest speeds of unsteady surface water waves
Intuitively, crest speeds of water waves are assumed to match their phase speeds. However,
this is generally not the case for natural waves within unsteady wave groups. This motivates …
this is generally not the case for natural waves within unsteady wave groups. This motivates …
[HTML][HTML] Detection of breaking waves in single wave gauge records of surface elevation fluctuations
D Liberzon, A Vreme, S Knobler… - Journal of Atmospheric …, 2019 - journals.ametsoc.org
We report the development of a new method for accurate detection of breaking water waves
that addresses the need for an accurate and cost-effective method that is independent of …
that addresses the need for an accurate and cost-effective method that is independent of …
Wave breaking probabilities under wind forcing in open sea and laboratory
S Knobler, E Winiarska, A Babanin, D Liberzon - Physics of Fluids, 2022 - pubs.aip.org
Water wave breaking represents one of the most arduous problems in fluid mechanics.
Understanding the process of wave breaking and developing an ability to quantify the …
Understanding the process of wave breaking and developing an ability to quantify the …