Wave–bottom interaction and extreme wave statistics due to shoaling and de-shoaling of irregular long-crested wave trains over steep seabed changes

J Zhang, M Benoit - Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 2021 - cambridge.org
The formation of abnormal (extreme) waves in coastal areas can be triggered by wave–
seabed interaction, in particular by steep bottom changes. As an incident equilibrium sea …

Statistics of extreme waves in coastal waters: large scale experiments and advanced numerical simulations

J Zhang, M Benoit, O Kimmoun, A Chabchoub, HC Hsu - Fluids, 2019 - mdpi.com
The formation mechanism of extreme waves in the coastal areas is still an open
contemporary problem in fluid mechanics and ocean engineering. Previous studies have …

Kinematics of nonlinear waves over variable bathymetry. Part I: Numerical modelling, verification and validation

M Benoit, J Zhang, Y Ma - Coastal Engineering, 2024 - Elsevier
Fluid particle kinematics due to wave motion (ie orbital velocities and accelerations) at and
beneath the free surface is involved in many coastal and ocean engineering applications, eg …

Fully nonlinear numerical investigations on the dynamics of fluid resonance between multiple bodies in close proximity

Z Song, L Lu, L Cheng, Y Liu, G Tang, X Lou - Physics of Fluids, 2022 - pubs.aip.org
Two-dimensional wave-induced fluid oscillations in two narrow gaps are numerically
investigated in the time domain. The arbitrary-Lagrangian–Eulerian finite element model for …

[HTML][HTML] A flexible fully nonlinear potential flow model for wave propagation over the complex topography of the Norwegian coast

W Wang, C Pákozdi, A Kamath, S Fouques… - Applied Ocean …, 2022 - Elsevier
Coastal wave propagation and transformation are complicated due to the significant
variations of water depth and irregular coastlines, which are typically present at the …

Statistical distributions of free surface elevation and wave height for out-of-equilibrium sea-states provoked by strong depth variations

J Zhang, Y Ma, M Benoit - Ocean Engineering, 2024 - Elsevier
As unidirectional irregular wave trains propagate over a steep shoal, the sea-state becomes
out-of-equilibrium and is continuously affected by the non-equilibrium dynamics (NED) over …

[HTML][HTML] Investigation of focusing wave properties in a numerical wave tank with a fully nonlinear potential flow model

W Wang, A Kamath, C Pakozdi, H Bihs - Journal of Marine Science and …, 2019 - mdpi.com
Nonlinear wave interactions and superpositions among the different wave components and
wave groups in a random sea sometimes produce rogue waves with extremely large wave …

[HTML][HTML] A fully nonlinear potential flow wave modelling procedure for simulations of offshore sea states with various wave breaking scenarios

W Wang, C Pákozdi, A Kamath, H Bihs - Applied Ocean Research, 2021 - Elsevier
An accurate representation of a given sea state is crucial for the study of hydrodynamic
loads on offshore structures. It is straightforward to check the quality of the reproduced …

Fully nonlinear phase-resolved wave modelling in the Norwegian fjords for floating bridges along the E39 coastal highway

W Wang, C Pákozdi, A Kamath, H Bihs - Journal of Ocean Engineering …, 2023 - Springer
Coastal wave conditions are highly influenced by bathymetry variations and coastlines. The
Norwegian fjords present large gradients of bathymetry changes and irregular coastline …

Fully nonlinear potential flow simulations of wave shoaling over slopes: Spilling breaker model and integral wave properties

ST Grilli, J Horrillo, S Guignard - Water Waves, 2020 - Springer
A spilling breaker model (SBM) is implemented in an existing two-dimensional (2D)
numerical wave tank (NWT), based on fully nonlinear potential flow (FNPF) theory and the …