To describe the strongly nonlinear dynamics of waves propagating in the final stages of
shoaling and in the surf and swash zones, fully nonlinear models are required. The ability of …

We consider the issue of wave breaking closure for Boussinesq type models, and attempt at
providing some more understanding of the sensitivity of some closure approaches to the …

Abstract The Serre–Green–Naghdi (SGN) equations, also known as the fully-nonlinear
Boussinesq wave equations, accurately describe the behaviour of dispersive shoaling water …

In this paper, a new method to handle wave breaking in fully non-linear Boussinesq-type
models is presented. The strategy developed to treat wave breaking is based on a …

We introduce a new class of two-dimensional fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green–
Naghdi equations over varying topography. These new Green–Naghdi systems share the …

A new methodology is presented to handle wave breaking over complex bathymetries in
extended two-dimensional Boussinesq-type (BT) models which are solved by an …

We investigate here the ability of a Green–Naghdi model to reproduce strongly nonlinear
and dispersive wave propagation. We test in particular the behavior of the new hybrid finite …

This paper addresses the floating body problem which consists in studying the interaction of
surface water waves with a floating body. We propose a new formulation of the water waves …

A novel tool for tsunami wave modeling is presented. This tool has the potential of being
used for operational purposes: indeed, the numerical code VOLNA is able to handle the …

We present new detail on how future sea‐level rise (SLR) will modify nonlinear wave
transformation processes, shoreline wave energy, and wave driven flooding on atoll islands …