[HTML][HTML] Accurate demonstrating of the interactions of two long waves with different dispersion relations: Generalized Hirota–Satsuma couple KdV equation
J Zhang, D Lu, SA Salama, M Khater - AIP Advances, 2022 - pubs.aip.org
In this study, the generalized formula of the Hirota–Satsuma coupled KdV equation derived
by Hirota and Satsuma in 1981 [Hirota and Satsuma, Phys. Lett. A 85, 407− 408 (1981)] is …
by Hirota and Satsuma in 1981 [Hirota and Satsuma, Phys. Lett. A 85, 407− 408 (1981)] is …
Solitary wave interaction with a floating pontoon based on boussinesq model and cfd-based simulations
A mathematical model of solitary wave interaction with a pontoon-type rigid floating structure
over a flat bottom is formulated based on Boussinesq-type equations under weakly …
over a flat bottom is formulated based on Boussinesq-type equations under weakly …
Spectral wave dissipation over a roughness‐varying barrier reef
The present paper reports on a field experiment performed over a shallow, roughness‐
varying barrier reef at Maupiti island, French Polynesia. The spectral wave energy balance …
varying barrier reef at Maupiti island, French Polynesia. The spectral wave energy balance …
New Perspectives for Nonlinear Depth‐Inversion of the Nearshore Using Boussinesq Theory
Accurately mapping the evolving bathymetry under energetic wave breaking is challenging,
yet critical for improving our understanding of sandy beach morphodynamics. Though …
yet critical for improving our understanding of sandy beach morphodynamics. Though …
Reconstruction of directional spectra of infragravity waves
Understanding directional spectra of infragravity (IG) waves composed of free and bound
components is required due to their impacts on various coastal processes (eg, coastal …
components is required due to their impacts on various coastal processes (eg, coastal …
[HTML][HTML] Correct generation of the bound set-down for surface gravity wave groups in laboratory experiments of intermediate to shallow depth
W Mortimer, A Raby, A Antonini, D Greaves… - Coastal …, 2022 - Elsevier
Using linear (first-order) wave generation theory in laboratory experiments, leads to
significant contamination of the wave field by free non-linear (second-order) error waves …
significant contamination of the wave field by free non-linear (second-order) error waves …
Equilibration process of out-of-equilibrium sea-states induced by strong depth variation: Evolution of coastal wave spectrum and representative parameters
Recent studies showed both experimental and numerical evidence that the occurrence
probability of freak waves could be significantly enhanced as results of non-equilibrium …
probability of freak waves could be significantly enhanced as results of non-equilibrium …
[HTML][HTML] Implications of second-order wave generation for physical modelling of force and run-up on a vertical wall using wave groups
W Mortimer, R Calvert, A Antonini, D Greaves… - Coastal …, 2023 - Elsevier
Experiments are contaminated by second-order error waves at sub-and super-harmonic
frequencies when first-order wave generation is used. Herein, we investigate by experiment …
frequencies when first-order wave generation is used. Herein, we investigate by experiment …
Relation between orbital velocities, pressure, and surface elevation in nonlinear nearshore water waves
The inability of the linear wave dispersion relation to characterize the dispersive properties
of nonlinear shoaling and breaking waves in the nearshore has long been recognized. Yet …
of nonlinear shoaling and breaking waves in the nearshore has long been recognized. Yet …
Observation and modelling of infragravity waves at a large meso-tidal inlet and lagoon
The role of infragravity waves (IG waves) in beach and dune erosion or in flood hazard has
been extensively studied on open beaches. In contrast, the detailed characterization of IG …
been extensively studied on open beaches. In contrast, the detailed characterization of IG …