Three-dimensional wave breaking

ML McAllister, S Draycott, R Calvert, T Davey, F Dias… - Nature, 2024 - nature.com
Although a ubiquitous natural phenomenon, the onset and subsequent process of surface
wave breaking are not fully understood. Breaking affects how steep waves become and …

Ocean wave directional distribution from GPS buoy observations off the west coast of Ireland: Assessment of a wavelet-based method

D Peláez-Zapata, V Pakrashi… - Journal of Atmospheric …, 2024 - journals.ametsoc.org
Abstract Knowledge of the directional distribution of a wave field is crucial for a better
understanding of complex air-sea interactions. However, the dynamic and unpredictable …

Identification of wave breaking from nearshore wave-by-wave records

K Holand, H Kalisch, M Bjørnestad, M Streßer… - Physics of …, 2023 - pubs.aip.org
Using data from a recent field campaign, we evaluate several breaking criteria with the goal
of assessing the accuracy of these criteria in wave breaking detection. Two new criteria are …

Laboratory experiments of surf zone dynamics under on-and offshore wind conditions

D Sous, PL Forsberg, J Touboul, GG Nogueira - Coastal Engineering, 2021 - Elsevier
This paper presents detailed laboratory experiments investigating the effect onshore and
offshore wind conditions have on nearshore wave dynamics, including extreme winds. The …

Statistics of fetch-limited wind waves observed along the western coast of the Gulf of Aqaba

A Shani-Zerbib, MA Tayfun, D Liberzon - Ocean Engineering, 2021 - Elsevier
Wind driven waves regime along the western shore of the Gulf of Aqaba is only sparsely
investigated, despite its significant impact on the abundance of engineering, leisure, and …

An experimental study of a quasi-impulsive backwards wave force associated with secondary load cycle on a vertical cylinder

T Tang, H Ding, S Dai, P Taylor, J Zang… - Journal of Fluid …, 2024 - ora.ox.ac.uk
Steep wave breaking on vertical cylinder (a typical foundation supporting offshore wind
turbines) will induce slam loads. Many questions on the important violent wave loading and …

Bubble-Turbulence Dynamics and Dissipation Beneath Laboratory Breaking Waves

AW Smith, BK Haus… - Journal of Physical …, 2022 - journals.ametsoc.org
Bubbles directly link sea surface structure to the dissipation rate of turbulence in the ocean
surface layer through wave breaking, and they are an important vehicle for air–sea transfer …

Passive acoustic determination of spectral wave breaking dissipation

X Zou, AV Babanin, EW Schulz… - Journal of Physical …, 2022 - journals.ametsoc.org
When a wave breaks, it produces bubbles whose sizes depend on the breaking severity.
This paper attempts to estimate wave breaking dissipation through a passive acoustic …

Wave breaking probabilities under wind forcing in open sea and laboratory

S Knobler, E Winiarska, A Babanin, D Liberzon - Physics of Fluids, 2022 - pubs.aip.org
Water wave breaking represents one of the most arduous problems in fluid mechanics.
Understanding the process of wave breaking and developing an ability to quantify the …

Data-based methods for analysing single-point ocean wave measurements

K Holand - 2024 - bora.uib.no
This master's thesis aims to enhance techniques for understanding, modelling, and
predicting ocean surface processes using undersampled data and incomplete information …