Rip currents are fast-moving flows, traveling “outward almost at right angles to the shore”,
creating a natural hazard for beachgoers, who suddenly find themselves in deep water …

The French Aquitanian Coast is an approximately 250 km long straight low coast exposed to
high energy conditions in a meso-macrotidal setting. Offshore wave conditions are …

In the present work, the OpenFOAM® newly developed wave generation and active
absorption boundary condition presented in the companion paper (Higuera et al., submitted …

Wave-dominated sandy beaches are highly valued by societies and are amongst the world's
most energetic and dynamic environments. On wave-dominated beaches with unlimited …

The nearshore region exhibits many striking morphological patterns with a variety of spatial
and temporal scales. The formation of these rhythmic features has been initially ascribed …

The coupling between topography, waves and currents in the surf zone may self-organize to
produce the formation of shore-transverse or shore-oblique sand bars on an otherwise …

We use a nonlinear morphodynamic model to examine the formation and nonlinear
evolution of surfzone rip channels on embayed beaches. Starting from a range of embayed …

This review highlights the important role of the depth‐averaged sediment concentration
(DASC) to understand the formation of a number of coastal morphodynamic features that …

Crescentic sandbars and rip channels along wave‐dominated sandy beaches are relevant
to understand localized beach and dune erosion during storms. In recent years, a paradigm …

This paper introduces a semi-automatic computer algorithm designed to detect rip current
channels in video imagery. As a case study, this method is applied to 3.3 years of video data …