Swash-zone morphodynamics

G Masselink, JA Puleo - Continental Shelf Research, 2006 - Elsevier
Hydrodynamic forcing with respect to sediment transport and morphologic change, paying
particular attention to relevant swash asymmetries, is reviewed. The hydrodynamics are …

Concepts in gravel beach dynamics

D Buscombe, G Masselink - Earth-Science Reviews, 2006 - Elsevier
The dominant processes in gravel beach dynamics are reviewed, highlighting some
common themes which unify the various components of the gravel beach system, the …

From fine sand to boulders: Examining the relationship between beach-face slope and sediment size

N Bujan, R Cox, G Masselink - Marine Geology, 2019 - Elsevier
It is a long-standing maxim that coarser sediment sizes are associated with steeper beach-
face slopes; but because most work has focused on sandy beaches, few data are available …

A field based classification scheme for gravel beaches

R Jennings, J Shulmeister - Marine Geology, 2002 - Elsevier
A tripartite classification of gravel beaches, based upon morphodynamic properties, is
proposed and demonstrated for 42 New Zealand beaches. The main advantage of this …

[HTML][HTML] Modelling storm hydrodynamics on gravel beaches with XBeach-G

RT McCall, G Masselink, TG Poate, JA Roelvink… - Coastal …, 2014 - Elsevier
In this paper we present a process-based numerical model for the prediction of storm
hydrodynamics and hydrology on gravel beaches. The model comprises an extension of an …

Toward reliable storm-hazard forecasts: XBeach calibration and its potential application in an operational early-warning system

MI Vousdoukas, Ó Ferreira, LP Almeida, A Pacheco - Ocean Dynamics, 2012 - Springer
The study aims to calibrate/validate and apply the dune-erosion model, XBeach, in order to
predict morphological response to storm events along a meso-tidal, steeply sloping beach …

[HTML][HTML] A statistical-process based approach for modelling beach profile variability

D Pender, H Karunarathna - Coastal Engineering, 2013 - Elsevier
This paper presents a methodology for modelling medium term (annual to decadal) cross
shore beach profile change and erosion. The statistical-process based approach (SPA) …

Measurements and modelling of beach groundwater flow in the swash-zone: a review

DP Horn - Continental Shelf Research, 2006 - Elsevier
This paper reviews research on beach groundwater dynamics and identifies research
questions which will need to be answered before swash zone sediment transport and beach …

Observations of morphological change and sediment transport on a steep gravel beach

MJ Austin, G Masselink - Marine Geology, 2006 - Elsevier
Observations of morphological change and swash sediment loads, concurrent with
measurements of water level, waves and currents, were obtained during a spring-to-spring …

Coastal groundwater dynamics with a focus on wave effects

Y Zheng, M Yang, H Liu - Earth-Science Reviews, 2024 - Elsevier
Groundwater dynamics in the coastal unconfined aquifer is one of the most important
physical factors in the coastal zone since it greatly influences the nearshore hydrodynamics …