Experimental evidence of hydrodynamic instantons: the universal route to rogue waves

G Dematteis, T Grafke, M Onorato, E Vanden-Eijnden - Physical Review X, 2019 - APS
A statistical theory of rogue waves is proposed and tested against experimental data
collected in a long water tank where random waves with different degrees of nonlinearity are …

[HTML][HTML] Observation-based source terms in the third-generation wave model WAVEWATCH III: Updates and verification

Q Liu, WE Rogers, AV Babanin… - Journal of Physical …, 2019 - journals.ametsoc.org
Observation-Based Source Terms in the Third-Generation Wave Model WAVEWATCH III:
Updates and Verification in: Journal of Physical Oceanography Volume 49 Issue 2 (2019) …

Global wave hindcasts using the observation‐based source terms: Description and validation

Q Liu, AV Babanin, WE Rogers, S Zieger… - Journal of Advances …, 2021 - Wiley Online Library
Global wave hindcasts are developed using the third generation spectral wave model
WAVEWATCH III with the observation‐based source terms (ST6) and a hybrid rectilinear …

Modelling rogue waves in 1D wave trains with the JONSWAP spectrum, by means of the High Order Spectral Method and a fully nonlinear numerical model

C Kirezci, AV Babanin, DV Chalikov - Ocean Engineering, 2021 - Elsevier
Probability of rogue wave occurrence due to modulational instability in unidirectional
JONSWAP sea states are investigated. This investigation has been conducted based on the …

Incoherent fermi-pasta-ulam recurrences and unconstrained thermalization mediated by strong phase correlations

M Guasoni, J Garnier, B Rumpf, D Sugny, J Fatome… - Physical Review X, 2017 - APS
The long-standing and controversial Fermi-Pasta-Ulam problem addresses fundamental
issues of statistical physics, and the attempt to resolve the mystery of the recurrences has led …

Evaluation of skewness and kurtosis of wind waves parameterized by JONSWAP spectra

SY Annenkov, VI Shrira - Journal of physical Oceanography, 2014 - journals.ametsoc.org
The authors consider the deviations of wave height statistics from Gaussianity, manifested in
higher statistical moments of random wind-wave fields, namely, in the nonzero values of the …

Freak waves caused by reflection

D Andrade, R Stuhlmeier, M Stiassnie - Coastal Engineering, 2021 - Elsevier
We study the temporal distribution of wave energy in a wave field that is generated by the
reflection of a wave spectrum from a vertical wall. Weakly nonlinear wave fields over finite …

Rogue wave formation in adverse ocean current gradients

M Manolidis, M Orzech, J Simeonov - Journal of Marine Science and …, 2019 - mdpi.com
Studies of the nonlinear Schrödinger (NLS) equation indicate that surface gravity waves
traveling against currents of increasing strength gain energy and steepness in the process …

Probabilistic assessment of rogue wave occurrence in directional wave fields

C Kirezci, AV Babanin, D Chalikov - Ocean Dynamics, 2021 - Springer
In this study, the relation between rogue wave occurrence statistics and properties of the
directional wind-wave spectrum is investigated. The study is conducted by means of the fully …

Modulational instability in JONSWAP sea states using the Alber equation

O Gramstad - International Conference on Offshore …, 2017 - asmedigitalcollection.asme.org
An investigation of the instability of JONSWAP wave fields is carried out within the
framework of the Alber equation [1]. The Alber equation describes the weakly nonlinear …