Can Short‐Wave Nonlinearity Affect the Prediction of Wave Setup?

T Guérin, G Ruessink - Journal of Geophysical Research …, 2021 - Wiley Online Library
Based on high‐resolution laboratory data of instantaneous surface elevation and fluid
velocity associated with the propagation of short waves over a gently sloping beach …

Modélisation morphodynamique pluri-décennale des côtes dominées par la marée et les vagues

T Guerin - 2016 - theses.hal.science
Cette thèse traite de la morphodynamique pluri-décennale des environnements sableux
soumis à l'action combinée des courants de marée et des vagues. Dans ces travaux, une …

[PDF][PDF] A Comparison between Boussinesq and NSW Theories for the Numerical Simulation of Wave Setup

M SHAHRABI, P BADIEI, K BARGI - 2015 - researchgate.net
Increase in mean water level or setup is the result of the transfer of momentum to water
column during the wave breaking process. During the wave breaking process, wave energy …