In December 2004, a huge tsunami in SE Asia claimed many lives and caused catastrophic
damage. This event has stimulated a debate about the role played by coastal ecosystems …

Beaches that are geologically controlled by rock and coral formations are the rule, not the
exception. This paper reviews the current understanding of geologically controlled beaches …

Coastal ecosystems, particularly intertidal wetlands and reefs (coral and shellfish), can play
a critical role in reducing the vulnerability of coastal communities to rising seas and coastal …

In the granitic Seychelles, many shores and beaches are fringed by coral reef flats which
provide protection to shores from erosion by waves. The surfaces of these reef flats support …

A 2 week field experiment was conducted to measure surface wave dissipation on a barrier
reef at Kaneohe Bay, Oahu, Hawaii. Wave heights and velocities were measured at several …

A 3 week field study was conducted to investigate the dynamics of low‐frequency
(infragravity) wave motions over a fringing reef at Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia. Short …

Low-frequency (infragravity) wave dynamics on a fringing coral reef were investigated using
the numerical model XBeach (Roelvink et al., 2009). First, the skill of the model was …

We examined the role of wave‐driven circulation relative to wind and buoyancy forcing in a
coral reef‐lagoon system. Circulation measurements in Paopao Bay, Moorea, French …

Many low‐lying tropical islands are susceptible to sea level rise and often subjected to
overwash and flooding during large wave events. To quantify wave dynamics and wave …

The tragic and devastating consequences of the Asian tsunami, December 2004, and the
hurricanes and cyclones of 2005 were a wake up call for the global community, dramatically …