Boussinesq models and their application to coastal processes across a wide range of scales

JT Kirby - Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean …, 2016 - ascelibrary.org
In this paper, the development of a class of depth-integrated, phase-resolving models for
surface wave propagation, known as Boussinesq-type models (BTMs), is reviewed. This …

On wave breaking for Boussinesq-type models

M Kazolea, M Ricchiuto - Ocean Modelling, 2018 - Elsevier
We consider the issue of wave breaking closure for Boussinesq type models, and attempt at
providing some more understanding of the sensitivity of some closure approaches to the …

A quadtree-adaptive multigrid solver for the Serre–Green–Naghdi equations

S Popinet - Journal of Computational Physics, 2015 - Elsevier
Abstract The Serre–Green–Naghdi (SGN) equations, also known as the fully-nonlinear
Boussinesq wave equations, accurately describe the behaviour of dispersive shoaling water …

Bifurcation solitons and breathers for the nonlocal Boussinesq equations

YL Ma, BQ Li - Applied Mathematics Letters, 2022 - Elsevier
Abstract The nonlocal Boussinesq equations (NLBEs) are investigated in this work. The
general forms of soliton solutions of the equations are firstly derived via Hirota bilinear …

Depth-induced wave breaking in a non-hydrostatic, near-shore wave model

P Smit, M Zijlema, G Stelling - Coastal Engineering, 2013 - Elsevier
The energy dissipation in the surf-zone due to wave breaking is inherently accounted for in
shock-capturing non-hydrostatic wave models, but this requires high vertical resolutions. To …

Two new types of nonlocal Boussinesq equations in water waves: bright and dark soliton solutions

BQ Li, AM Wazwaz, YL Ma - Chinese Journal of Physics, 2022 - Elsevier
In this work, we develop two new types of (1+ 1)-dimensional nonlocal Boussinesq
equations to represent more situations in complex water waves. By applying ansatz method …

[HTML][HTML] Large-scale wave breaking over a barred beach: SPH numerical simulation and comparison with experiments

C Altomare, P Scandura, I Cáceres, G Viccione - Coastal Engineering, 2023 - Elsevier
Wave breaking plays a crucial role in several areas of interest in coastal engineering, such
as flooding, wave loading on structures and coastal morphodynamics. In the present study …

A modeling-based analysis of the flooding associated with Xynthia, central Bay of Biscay

X Bertin, K Li, A Roland, YJ Zhang, JF Breilh… - Coastal …, 2014 - Elsevier
Storm-induced coastal flooding is among the most destructive natural disasters, as seen
recently in the Bay of Bengal, the Gulf of Mexico and the Philippines. This study presents a …

A new class of fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green–Naghdi models for efficient 2D simulations

D Lannes, F Marche - Journal of Computational Physics, 2015 - Elsevier
We introduce a new class of two-dimensional fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green–
Naghdi equations over varying topography. These new Green–Naghdi systems share the …

Non-hydrostatic modeling of surf zone wave dynamics

P Smit, T Janssen, L Holthuijsen, J Smith - Coastal Engineering, 2014 - Elsevier
Non-hydrostatic models such as Surface WAves till SHore (SWASH) resolve many of the
relevant physics in coastal wave propagation such as dispersion, shoaling, refraction …