Wave-driven currents have a substantial impact on local circulation patterns in and across
the surf zone, and are responsible for cross-shore and longshore exchange of mass and …

Short-crested breaking waves that result from directionally spread wave conditions dissipate
energy and generate turbulence within the surf zone, altering sediment transport processes …

Stereo imaging of the sea surface elevation provides unique field data to investigate the
geometry and dynamics of oceanic waves. Typically, this technique allows retrieving the 4-D …

Wave breaking is an important process for energy dissipation in the open ocean and coastal
seas. It drives beach morphodynamics, controls air-sea interactions, determines when ship …

Reliable predictions of oceanic waves during storms have always been foremost for offshore
design and operation, coastal hazards, and navigation safety. Indeed, many accidents that …

This paper presents new results regarding numerical simulations of breaking wave impacts
on a surface-piercing cylinder. The computational fluid dynamics solver, code_saturne …

In the surf zone, non‐hydrostatic processes are either neglected or estimated using linear
wave theory. The recent development of technologies capable of directly measuring the free …

Typical oceanographic instruments are expensive, complex to build, and hard to deploy and
require constant and specialized maintenance. In this paper, we present a cheap and simple …

Wave run-up is a key factor for the assessment of coastal flood risk during large swell
events. The behavior of swash motions along embayed beaches is strongly influenced by …

One of the most promising techniques for the analysis of Spatio-Temporal ocean wave fields
is stereo vision. Indeed, the reconstruction accuracy and resolution typically outperform …