Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of
wind-generated “short waves”(typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common …

The dominant hydrodynamic forcing and resulting sediment transport mechanisms in the
swash zone are reviewed, combined with a discussion of future measurement and …

Coastal dunes are often the first and only line of physical defense for communities subjected
to damaging storms and waves. Planting vegetation on them has been proposed as one …

A sequence of daily beach surveys acquired over one month covering an area larger than
100,000 m 2, was analyzed to study morphological changes resulting from a cluster of …

The Maldives experience seasonal shifts in monsoon winds from the west‐northwest to
northeast. The morphologic response of reef island beaches and shorelines to these …

Abstract In the Pacific Basin, the El Niño/Southern Oscillation (ENSO) is the dominant mode
of interannual climate variability, driving substantial changes in oceanographic forcing and …

Optical instruments have been used effectively in studies of sediment dynamics for several
decades. Without accurate instrument calibrations, calculated concentrations of suspended …

Storms are the main mechanism responsible for coastal erosion on open coastlines. There
is a vast amount of literature on the consequences of extreme single storms, however the …

Abstract Infragravity waves (0.005–0.05 Hz) have recently been observed to dissipate a
large part of their energy in the short-wave (0.05–1 Hz) surf zone, however, the underlying …

The coupling between topographic irregularities and wave‐driven mean water motion in the
surf zone is examined. This coupling occurs because the topographic perturbations produce …