This review focuses on recent advances in process-based numerical models of the impact of extreme storms on sandy coasts. Driven by larger-scale models of meteorology and …
GA El, MA Hoefer - Physica D: Nonlinear Phenomena, 2016 - Elsevier
There is growing physical and mathematical interest in the hydrodynamics of dissipationless/dispersive media. Since GB Whitham's seminal publication fifty years ago …
In this paper, a new method to handle wave breaking in fully non-linear Boussinesq-type models is presented. The strategy developed to treat wave breaking is based on a …
D Lannes, F Marche - Journal of Computational Physics, 2015 - Elsevier
We introduce a new class of two-dimensional fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green– Naghdi equations over varying topography. These new Green–Naghdi systems share the …
We consider the issue of wave breaking closure for Boussinesq type models, and attempt at providing some more understanding of the sensitivity of some closure approaches to the …
A two-layer long-wave approximation of the homogeneous Euler equations for a free- surface flow evolving over mild slopes is derived. The upper layer is turbulent and is …
P Bonneton, N Bonneton, JP Parisot… - Journal of Geophysical …, 2015 - Wiley Online Library
The formation and dynamics of tidal bores in funnel‐shaped estuaries is investigated from both a global tidal wave scaling analysis and new quantitative field observations. We show …
The reconstruction of water wave elevation from bottom pressure measurements is an important issue for coastal applications, but corresponds to a difficult mathematical problem …
C Viotti, F Carbone, F Dias - Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 2014 - cambridge.org
The runup of long strongly nonlinear waves impinging on a vertical wall can exceed six times the far-field amplitude of the incoming waves. This outcome stems from a precursory …