Rip currents are narrow and concentrated seaward-directed flows that extend from close to
the shoreline, through the surf zone, and varying distances beyond. Rip currents are …

Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of
wind-generated “short waves”(typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common …

Rip currents are fast-moving flows, traveling “outward almost at right angles to the shore”,
creating a natural hazard for beachgoers, who suddenly find themselves in deep water …

Beaches that are geologically controlled by rock and coral formations are the rule, not the
exception. This paper reviews the current understanding of geologically controlled beaches …

This paper describes the importance of wave‐current interaction in an inlet‐estuary system.
The three‐dimensional, fully coupled, Coupled Ocean‐Atmosphere‐Wave‐Sediment …

The accepted view of rip currents is that they are an efficient mechanism for transporting
material out of the surf zone. Previous rip current campaigns on natural beaches have …

Wave-driven currents have a substantial impact on local circulation patterns in and across
the surf zone, and are responsible for cross-shore and longshore exchange of mass and …

Megarips have long been recognised as an important, yet poorly documented, mechanism
of beach erosion on high-energy embayed beaches. The persistence and cumulative effect …

Characterizing the nearshore wave resource at a regional scale poses a great challenge
because high-quality wave data are required. This paper presents a detailed analysis of …

SWAN model predictions, initialized with directional wave buoy observations in 550-m water
depth offshore of a steep, submarine canyon, are compared with wave observations in 5.0 …