A wide variety of hydraulic and coastal flows can be modeled using shallow water theories,
where the so-called Serre-Green-Naghdi (SGN) equations constitute a fully nonlinear and …

Although easily discernible by the naked eye, a robust and consistent methodology to
identify the spatio-temporal occurrence of wave breaking in the nearshore on a wave-by …

The cross‐shore transformation of breaking‐wave roller momentum and energy on
observed barred surfzone bathymetry is investigated with a two‐phase Reynolds Averaged …

Accurate simulation of water's wave propagation and nonlinear wave transformations is of
fundamental importance to marine and coastal engineering. Over the last few decades …

On the basis of field experiments and modeling, the dependence of the dissipation of the
energy of waves breaking by plunging and spilling on the frequency of wave spectra was …