The spatial and temporal variation of energy dissipation rates in breaking waves controls the mean circulation of the surf zone. As this circulation plays an important role in the …
Q Chen, N Wang, Z Chen - Coastal Engineering, 2023 - Elsevier
This paper uses physics-informed neural networks (PINNs) to simultaneously determine nearshore water depths and wave height fields based on remote sensing of the ocean …
M Tissier, P Bonneton, H Michallet… - Journal of Geophysical …, 2015 - Wiley Online Library
The cross‐shore evolution of individual wave celerity is investigated using two high‐ resolution laboratory experiments on bichromatic waves. Individual waves are tracked …
Breaker height is a key parameter of nearshore processes and the demand for a continuous remote estimator is pressing. In this paper we present a standalone remote video-based …
J Rutten, SM de Jong… - IEEE Transactions on …, 2016 - ieeexplore.ieee.org
Shore-based remote sensing platforms are increasingly used to frequently (~ daily) obtain bathymetric information of large (~ km 2) nearshore regions over many years. With recorded …
This paper presents an investigation into the use of a 2‐dimensional laser scanner (LiDAR) to obtain measurements of wave processes in the inner surf and swash zones of a microtidal …
This study presents unpublished field observations of infragravity waves, collected at the dissipative beach of Saint‐Trojan (Oléron Island, France) during the storm Kurt (3 February …
In the nearshore, describing the complex individual wave dynamics remains a key challenge. In this paper we test the ability of the Radon Transform to produce estimates of …
A new method of runup detection from video imagery is introduced and validated at an energetic dissipative beach. The instantaneous waterline is detected from uprush and …