Experimental evidence of nonlinear focusing in standing water waves

Y He, A Slunyaev, N Mori, A Chabchoub - Physical Review Letters, 2022 - APS
Nonlinear wave focusing originating from the universal modulation instability (MI) is
responsible for the formation of strong wave localizations on the water surface and in …

Statistical and dynamical characteristics of extreme wave crests assessed with field measurements from the North Sea

MP Malila, F Barbariol, A Benetazzo… - Journal of Physical …, 2023 - journals.ametsoc.org
Wave crests of unexpected height and steepness pose a danger to activities at sea, and
long-term field measurements provide important clues for understanding the environmental …

On kurtosis and extreme waves in crossing directional seas: a laboratory experiment

JF Luxmoore, S Ilic, N Mori - Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 2019 - cambridge.org
We examine the statistical properties of extreme and rogue wave activity in crossing
directional seas, to constrain the probabilistic distributions of wave heights and wave crests …

Space-time statistics of extreme ocean waves in crossing sea states

S Davison, A Benetazzo, F Barbariol… - Frontiers in Marine …, 2022 - frontiersin.org
The study of extreme ocean waves has gained considerable interest in recent years, due to
their importance for offshore design and navigation safety, and several theoretical …

Statistical properties of surface gravity waves and freak wave occurrence in crossing sea states

S Liu, T Waseda, J Yao, X Zhang - Physical Review Fluids, 2022 - APS
A series of direct numerical simulations of the Euler equation are conducted using a high-
order spectral (HOS) method to investigate the nonlinear statistics and freak wave …

Analysis of wave characteristics in the North Pacific Ocean based on the fusion of multi-source satellite altimetry

H Gao, B Liang, H Yang, Z Shao - Physics of Fluids, 2024 - pubs.aip.org
Regional analysis of wave characteristics is crucial for ocean engineering planning and
marine disaster protection. However, current wave observation methods have limitations in …

Extreme wave statistics in combined and partitioned windsea and swell

S Støle-Hentschel, K Trulsen, JC Nieto Borge, S Olluri - Water Waves, 2020 - Springer
We investigate how the extreme wave statistics of a combined windsea and swell appears to
be different from the extreme wave statistics of the corresponding windsea and swell …

Performance of different input and dissipation packages in WAVEWATCH III model during tropical cyclones

H Yang, Z Shao, B Liang, Z Wang, D Lee - Physics of Fluids, 2022 - pubs.aip.org
Ocean surface waves exposed to extreme weather conditions, such as tropical cyclones
(TCs), are critical environmental forces acting on the coastal and offshore structures …

[HTML][HTML] Crest-height statistics in finite water depth. Part 1: The role of the nonlinear interactions in uni-directional seas

ES Zve, C Swan, GO Hughes - Ocean Engineering, 2023 - Elsevier
This paper explores the competing nonlinear processes that define the largest crest heights
in uni-directional random seas. In deep water, the third-order near-resonant interactions …

Rogue waves: Results of the ExWaMar project

EM Bitner-Gregersen, O Gramstad, K Trulsen… - Ocean …, 2024 - Elsevier
Rogue waves, also known as freak waves, have received much attention in the scientific
community as well as in media and the marine industry in the past two decades. Forecasts of …