Over the past decades, the scientific community has made significant efforts to simulate
flooding conditions using a variety of complex physically based models. Despite all …

The swash zone largely influences nearshore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics through
dissipating or reflecting wave energy and controlling whether sediment will be stored on the …

Coastal flooding prediction systems can be an efficient risk-reduction instrument. The goal of
this study was to design, build, test, and implement a wave-induced flooding early warning …

Modeling wave runup on beaches and structures is an important step toward accurate
coastal flood prediction. Depth-averaged non-hydrostatic models such as XBNH (XBeach …

Time series of storm wave runup and overtopping observed on a sandy beach with a
scanning LiDAR are compared with predictions of the phase-resolving numerical model …

Wind-generated surface waves breaking in the nearshore cause an increase in mean water
levels, the wave setup, which can represent a significant fraction of storm surges developing …

Wave runup is a critical factor that affects coastal flooding, shoreline changes, and the
damage to coastal structures. Climate change is also expected to amplify the impact of wave …

Engineered and natural submerged coastal structures (eg, submerged breakwaters and
reefs) modify incident wave fields and thus can alter hydrodynamic processes adjacent to …

Sand dunes are natural features providing protection to coastal communities against waves
from extreme events such as hurricanes. In this study, the non-hydrostatic XBeach model …

An extensive new set of laboratory measurements have been performed with random and
monochromatic waves to study runup on fringing reef-fronted beaches. The experiments …