In this paper, the development of a class of depth-integrated, phase-resolving models for
surface wave propagation, known as Boussinesq-type models (BTMs), is reviewed. This …

Wave-driven currents have a substantial impact on local circulation patterns in and across
the surf zone, and are responsible for cross-shore and longshore exchange of mass and …

Significant advances in the modeling of nearshore processes have occurred over recent
decades as a result of developments in both computational approaches and theoretical …

abstract In order to investigate the rip current formed between the ends of breaking wave
crests, a laboratory experiment was conducted over a bathymetry with an equilibrium profile …

In the studies of harbor oscillations, some modes with extremely narrow amplification
diagram are significantly common. An extended mild-slope equation and a fully nonlinear …

Coherent waves are pairs of waves having identical frequency and waveform with constant
phase difference leading to a stationary wave interference in the wavefield of phase …

The statistical properties of obliquely incident irregular waves over a planar sloping bottom
were investigated numerically by the well-known numerical wave model FUNWAVE 2.0 …

The main objective of this paper was to examine the influence of forereef bottom slope and
the effects of coral degradation on the transformation of wave shapes over a fringing reef flat …

Rip currents are fast offshore currents generated during the breaking process of waves
propagating nearshore, posing a potential life safety threat to coastal bathers. This study …

A wave forecasting system using FUNWAVE-TVD which is based on the fully nonlinear
Boussinesq equations by Chen (2006) was developed to provide an accurate wave …