An effort has been made to improve quantitative understanding of beach morphology and
stone structural damage progression and to develop a simple and robust model that is …

This paper concerns the hydrodynamics induced by random waves incident on a steep
beach. New experimental results are presented on surface elevation and kinematic …

This study analyzes tide transformation in the Guadalquivir estuary (SW Spain). When fresh
water discharges are less than 40 m3/s, the estuary is tidally‐dominated (flood‐dominated) …

A new time-domain method for separating incident and reflected waves in wave flumes
using any number of wave gauges is presented. The method (named LASA) is based on a …

Wave runup and overtopping on inclined coastal structures and wave runup on beaches are
reviewed together to examine the ranges of wave runup processes occurring on slopes of …

This paper presents numerical simulations and analytical predictions of key aspects of
swash oscillations on a steep beach. Simulations of the shoreline displacement based on …

The importance of wave reflection on nearshore hydrodynamics has recently been
acknowledged by an increasing number of studies, yet it is difficult to simulate by the …

As a first step to develop a probabilistic method for the maintenance and repair of
breakwaters, one 28.5-h test and two shorter tests, which were repeated twice, were …

A detailed understanding of the behaviour of waves in the nearshore is essential for coastal
engineers as these waves cause beach erosion, coastal flooding and damage to coastal …

An existing 2D method for separating incident and reflected waves over a horizontal bed
[Frigaard, P., Brorsen, M., 1995. A time domain method for separating incident and reflected …