Wave–bottom interaction and extreme wave statistics due to shoaling and de-shoaling of irregular long-crested wave trains over steep seabed changes
The formation of abnormal (extreme) waves in coastal areas can be triggered by wave–
seabed interaction, in particular by steep bottom changes. As an incident equilibrium sea …
seabed interaction, in particular by steep bottom changes. As an incident equilibrium sea …
[HTML][HTML] A flexible fully nonlinear potential flow model for wave propagation over the complex topography of the Norwegian coast
Coastal wave propagation and transformation are complicated due to the significant
variations of water depth and irregular coastlines, which are typically present at the …
variations of water depth and irregular coastlines, which are typically present at the …
Kinematics of nonlinear waves over variable bathymetry. Part I: Numerical modelling, verification and validation
Fluid particle kinematics due to wave motion (ie orbital velocities and accelerations) at and
beneath the free surface is involved in many coastal and ocean engineering applications, eg …
beneath the free surface is involved in many coastal and ocean engineering applications, eg …
Statistical distributions of free surface elevation and wave height for out-of-equilibrium sea-states provoked by strong depth variations
As unidirectional irregular wave trains propagate over a steep shoal, the sea-state becomes
out-of-equilibrium and is continuously affected by the non-equilibrium dynamics (NED) over …
out-of-equilibrium and is continuously affected by the non-equilibrium dynamics (NED) over …
A non-hydrostatic numerical model for simulating regular wave breaking and surf-swash zone motions
A Shirkavand, K Farrahi-Moghaddam - Scientific Reports, 2024 - nature.com
In the present study, a non-hydrostatic two-dimensional vertical model has been developed
to simulate the breaking of regular waves and surf-swash zone motions on a sloping beach …
to simulate the breaking of regular waves and surf-swash zone motions on a sloping beach …
Unified depth-limited wave breaking detection and dissipation in fully nonlinear potential flow models
A new method is proposed for simulating the energy dissipation resulting from depth-limited
wave breaking, in combination with a universal breaking onset criterion, in two-dimensional …
wave breaking, in combination with a universal breaking onset criterion, in two-dimensional …
Equilibration process of out-of-equilibrium sea-states induced by strong depth variation: Evolution of coastal wave spectrum and representative parameters
Recent studies showed both experimental and numerical evidence that the occurrence
probability of freak waves could be significantly enhanced as results of non-equilibrium …
probability of freak waves could be significantly enhanced as results of non-equilibrium …
Real-time model for wave attenuation using active plate breakwater based on deep reinforcement learning
H Liang, H Qin, L Mu, H Su - Ocean Engineering, 2023 - Elsevier
This paper presents a numerical study of the interaction between irregular waves and
actively controlled plate breakwater based on deep reinforcement learning (DRL), in which …
actively controlled plate breakwater based on deep reinforcement learning (DRL), in which …
Effect of shoaling length on rogue wave occurrence
The impact of shoaling on linear water waves is well known, but it has only been recently
found to significantly amplify both the intensity and frequency of rogue waves in nonlinear …
found to significantly amplify both the intensity and frequency of rogue waves in nonlinear …
An enhanced spectral boundary integral method for modeling highly nonlinear water waves in variable depth
J Wang - Journal of Computational Physics, 2025 - Elsevier
This paper presents a new numerical model based on the highly nonlinear potential flow
theory for simulating the propagation of water waves in variable depth. A new set of …
theory for simulating the propagation of water waves in variable depth. A new set of …