Experimental evidence of hydrodynamic instantons: the universal route to rogue waves

G Dematteis, T Grafke, M Onorato, E Vanden-Eijnden - Physical Review X, 2019 - APS
A statistical theory of rogue waves is proposed and tested against experimental data
collected in a long water tank where random waves with different degrees of nonlinearity are …

Distribution of sea-surface elevations in intermediate and shallow water depths

MA Tayfun, MA Alkhalidi - Coastal Engineering, 2020 - Elsevier
Waveforms described by the second-order Stokes-type approximations are prone to display
anomalous troughs with spurious negative crests. The systemic occurrence of such …

Wave-height distributions and nonlinear effects

MA Tayfun, F Fedele - Ocean engineering, 2007 - Elsevier
Theoretical distributions proposed for describing the crest-to-trough heights of linear waves
are reviewed briefly. To explore the effects of nonlinearities, these are generalized to second …

On the estimation of the kurtosis in directional sea states for freak wave forecasting

N Mori, M Onorato… - Journal of Physical …, 2011 - journals.ametsoc.org
Abstract Based on Monte Carlo simulations of the nonlinear Schrödinger equation in two
horizontal dimensions, the dependence of the kurtosis on the directional energy distribution …

On nonlinear wave groups and crest statistics

F Fedele, MA Tayfun - Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 2009 - cambridge.org
We present a second-order stochastic model of weakly nonlinear waves and develop
theoretical expressions for the expected shape of large surface displacements. The model …

[HTML][HTML] A new wave height distribution for intermediate and shallow water depths

I Karmpadakis, C Swan, M Christou - Coastal Engineering, 2022 - Elsevier
The present paper addresses the short-term distribution of zero-crossing wave heights in
intermediate and shallow water depths. New physical insights are provided regarding the …

On the extreme statistics of long‐crested deep water waves: Theory and experiments

N Mori, M Onorato, PAEM Janssen… - Journal of …, 2007 - Wiley Online Library
Quasi‐resonant four‐wave interactions may influence the statistical properties of deep water
long‐crested surface gravity waves. As a consequence, the wave height exceedance …

A laboratory study of wave crest statistics and the role of directional spreading

M Latheef, C Swan - Proceedings of the Royal Society A …, 2013 - royalsocietypublishing.org
This paper concerns the crest height statistics arising in sea states that are broad banded in
both frequency and direction. A new set of laboratory observations are presented and the …

Statistics of nonlinear wave crests and groups

MA Tayfun - Ocean Engineering, 2006 - Elsevier
Groups of large nonlinear waves with sharper higher crests can pose hazards to ships,
induce harbor resonance and cause wave-overtopping of fixed and floating structures. Past …

Wave crest and trough distributions in a broad-banded directional wave field

A Toffoli, E Bitner-Gregersen, M Onorato, AV Babanin - Ocean Engineering, 2008 - Elsevier
It is well established that the modulational instability enhances the probability of occurrence
for extreme events in long crested wave fields. Recent studies, however, have shown that …