On the over-production of turbulence beneath surface waves in Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes models

BE Larsen, DR Fuhrman - Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 2018 - cambridge.org
In previous computational fluid dynamics studies of breaking waves, there has been a
marked tendency to severely over-estimate turbulence levels, both pre-and post-breaking …

Surf zone turbulence and suspended sediment dynamics—A review

T Aagaard, J Brinkkemper, DF Christensen… - Journal of Marine …, 2021 - mdpi.com
The existence of sandy beaches relies on the onshore transport of sand by waves during
post-storm conditions. Most operational sediment transport models employ wave-averaged …

Reynolds stress turbulence modelling of surf zone breaking waves

Y Li, BE Larsen, DR Fuhrman - Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 2022 - cambridge.org
Computational fluid dynamics is increasingly used to investigate the inherently complicated
phenomenon of wave breaking. To date, however, no single model has proved capable of …

Parameterization of nearshore wave front slope

C Zhang, Q Zhang, J Zheng, Z Demirbilek - Coastal Engineering, 2017 - Elsevier
This study presents an empirical parameterization of wave front slope angle used in the
characterization of shoaling and breaking waves in nearshore environment. A large amount …

Suspended sediment transport around a large-scale laboratory breaker bar

J van Der Zanden, D Hurther, I Cáceres… - Coastal …, 2017 - Elsevier
This paper presents novel insights into suspended sediment concentrations and fluxes
under a large-scale laboratory plunging wave. Measurements of sediment concentrations …

Formation and development of a breaker bar under regular waves. Part 1: Model description and hydrodynamics

NG Jacobsen, J Fredsoe, JH Jensen - Coastal Engineering, 2014 - Elsevier
In this work a detailed hydrodynamic model is presented, which is used for the study of cross-
shore sediment transport and morphodynamics in two dimensions. The model is described …

Remote sensing of breaking wave phase speeds with application to non-linear depth inversions

PA Catálan, MC Haller - Coastal Engineering, 2008 - Elsevier
A number of existing models for surface wave phase speeds (linear and non-linear,
breaking and non-breaking waves) are reviewed and tested against phase speed data from …

Parameterization of nearshore wave breaker index

C Zhang, Y Li, Y Cai, J Shi, J Zheng, F Cai, H Qi - Coastal Engineering, 2021 - Elsevier
The performances of phase-averaged parametric nearshore wave transformation models
depend significantly on a reliable estimate of the wave breaker index γ (the breaker height …

Large‐eddy simulation of wave‐breaking induced turbulent coherent structures and suspended sediment transport on a barred beach

Z Zhou, TJ Hsu, D Cox, X Liu - Journal of Geophysical …, 2017 - Wiley Online Library
To understand the interaction between wave‐breaking induced turbulent coherent structures
and suspended sediment transport, we report a Large‐Eddy Simulation (LES) study of wave …

Quantitative analyses for wave energy evolution and dissipation processes under the gap resonance between two rectangular boxes

X Wang, Y Liu, DD Meringolo, L Lu, F Wang, S Gong… - Ocean …, 2025 - Elsevier
The realization of reliable quantitative analyses of the evolution and dissipation process of
wave energy for wave-induced gap resonance is challenging. This paper tries to overcome …