Wave-driven currents have a substantial impact on local circulation patterns in and across
the surf zone, and are responsible for cross-shore and longshore exchange of mass and …

Accurate information on waves and storm surges is essential to understand coastal hazards
that are expected to increase in view of global warming and rising sea levels. Despite the …

Projections of the future climate of small island states and territories are currently limited by
the coarse resolution of models. We call for rapid global and regional cooperation to …

Estimates of extreme sea levels have mainly been derived using atmospheric and tidal
forcing only, but surface gravity waves are a key process that can cause a substantial …

We applied machine learning to improve the accuracy of present predictors of wave setup.
Namely, we used an evolutionary-based genetic programming model and a previously …

In the context of climate change, height and frequency variations in extreme sea levels
(ESLs) are studied using deterministic and probabilistic approaches. However, this type of …

An advanced coupling between a three-dimensional ocean circulation model (CROCO) and
a spectral wave model (WAVEWATCH-III) is presented to better represent the interactions of …

In this study, the storm-tide and waves associated with Hurricanes Irma and Maria that struck
Puerto Rico (PR) successively in 2017 were simulated using a coupled circulation and …

Wave setup is a physical process that induces a temporal increase of the mean water level
due to wave dissipation by bottom friction and breaking in the surf zone, extending over tens …

The cross‐shore transformation of breaking‐wave roller momentum and energy on
observed barred surfzone bathymetry is investigated with a two‐phase Reynolds Averaged …