Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of
wind-generated “short waves”(typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common …

Applying probabilistic methods to infrequent but devastating natural events is intrinsically
challenging. For tsunami analyses, a suite of geophysical assessments should be in …

Surface gravity waves generated by winds are ubiquitous on our oceans and play a
primordial role in the dynamics of the ocean–land–atmosphere interfaces. In particular, wind …

The fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green–Naghdi model for shallow water waves of
large amplitude is studied. The original model is first recast under a new formulation more …

In this paper, a new method to handle wave breaking in fully non-linear Boussinesq-type
models is presented. The strategy developed to treat wave breaking is based on a …

We introduce a new class of two-dimensional fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green–
Naghdi equations over varying topography. These new Green–Naghdi systems share the …

A new methodology is presented to handle wave breaking over complex bathymetries in
extended two-dimensional Boussinesq-type (BT) models which are solved by an …

We present new detail on how future sea‐level rise (SLR) will modify nonlinear wave
transformation processes, shoreline wave energy, and wave driven flooding on atoll islands …

The purpose of Shallow Water Hydraulics is to present the theory and the computation of
open channel flows using analytical, numerical, and experimental results. The book's target …

In this paper, we present an original derivation process of a non-hydrostatic shallow water-
type model which aims at approximating the incompressible Euler and Navier-Stokes …