In this paper, the development of a class of depth-integrated, phase-resolving models for
surface wave propagation, known as Boussinesq-type models (BTMs), is reviewed. This …

Boussinesq–type equations of higher order in dispersion as well as in nonlinearity are
derived for waves (and wave–current interaction) over an uneven bottom. Formulations are …

A Boussinesq-type model is derived which is accurate to O (kh) 4 and which retains the full
representation of the fluid kinematics in nonlinear surface boundary condition terms, by not …

This paper is the second part of the work presented by Garcia et al.[Garcia, N., Lara, JL,
Losada, IJ, 2004. 2-D numerical analysis of near-field flow at low-crested breakwaters …

A set of model equations for water–wave propagation is derived by piecewise integration of
the primitive equations of motion through two arbitrary layers. Within each layer, an …

A general method for the derivation of asymptotic nonlinear models in shallow and deep
water is presented. Starting from a general dimensionless version of the water wave …

Modelling large-scale wave fields and their interaction with coastal and offshore structures
has become much more feasible over the last two decades with increases in computer …

Wind‐wave attack is the fundamental cause of erosion of salt marsh boundaries. Tidal
forcing acts as a proxy determining at which elevation waves pound against the marsh edge …

Publisher Summary This chapter discusses the development of Boussinesq models for
application to coastal hydrodynamics problems as it reached a level of maturity. The model …

Publisher Summary This chapter presents a unified theory for modeling water waves. The
different types of waves in water, varying from ripples on a placid pond, breaking of shoaling …